1. Measure the area
Mark the patio outline with stakes and string, then measure it. For curves or odd shapes, break the outline into rectangles, triangles and circles and add them up. Write down the total square footage — almost every other estimate starts from it.
2. Choose the surface
| Surface | What to estimate | Typical depth |
|---|---|---|
| Poured concrete | Cubic yards or bags, reinforcement, forms | 4 in slab on 4 in gravel base |
| Pavers | Pavers by area + 5–10% extra, edge restraint | 4–6 in gravel base + 1 in sand |
| Gravel patio | Tons of decorative gravel, fabric, edging | 2–3 in over a compacted base |
3. Estimate the base
Every hard patio needs a compacted crushed-stone base. For a 12 × 16 ft patio (192 sq ft), a 4 in base is 2.37 cubic yards — roughly 3.32 tons before a 10% compaction allowance. Pavers also need about 1 in of bedding sand on top, which is 0.59 cubic yards for the same area.
4. Walls and level changes
On a sloping yard, a low retaining wall can create a flat terrace for the patio. Estimate blocks per course, caps, and the drainage gravel that goes behind the wall. Walls over about 4 ft usually need a permit and engineering.
5. Borders and planting
Planting beds around the patio soften the edges. Estimate mulch at 2–3 in deep — one cubic yard covers about 108 sq ft at 3 in — and add edging between the beds and the hard surface.
6. Don't forget
- Landscape fabric under gravel and pavers to separate stone from soil.
- Slope of about ⅛–¼ in per foot away from the house for drainage.
- Conduit for outdoor lighting or outlets, laid before the base goes in.
- Tool rental: plate compactor, wet saw for pavers, concrete mixer for small pours.
- Call 811 before you dig to have buried utilities marked.